FRENCH TERRY vs FLEECE vs LOOPBACK
STREETWEAR FABRIC GUIDE

When you build a streetwear hoodie or sweatshirt, the fabric choice is 80% of the finished product's feel. But brand founders often specify vague terms like "fleece" without knowing what they're actually asking for. This guide breaks down the four main knit fabrics used in streetwear production so you can specify precisely what you want.

1. French Terry

French terry is a knit fabric with a smooth flat face and looped back. The loops are unbrushed, giving the fabric a slightly textured, structured feel. It's medium-weight and breathable.

Feel: Structured but soft. Absorbent. Not particularly warm.

Best for: Spring/summer hoodies, lightweight sweatshirts, joggers, lounge sets, athletic-adjacent pieces.

Weight range: Typically 240-360 GSM in streetwear applications.

Streetwear examples: Represent classics, Nike Tech Fleece adjacent, mid-weight boutique hoodies.

2. Brushed Fleece (Brushed French Terry)

Brushed fleece takes French terry and brushes the looped back to raise soft fibers. The result is a smooth outer face with a plush, fuzzy interior. This is the classic "warm hoodie" fabric.

Feel: Smooth outside, plush and warm inside. The comforting sweatshirt hug.

Best for: Fall/winter hoodies, cozy loungewear, thick joggers, standard streetwear hoodies.

Weight range: 320-450 GSM.

Streetwear examples: Champion classics, Fear of God ESSENTIALS hoodies, most premium streetwear.

3. Heavyweight Loopback (Reverse Loopback)

Loopback fabric shows the looped structure on the outer face | the "wrong side" becomes the visible surface. It has visible texture, a structured drape, and premium hand-feel. Often heavier weight than standard French terry.

Feel: Textured, sturdy, substantial. Sits away from the body rather than clinging.

Best for: Premium/luxury streetwear hoodies, boxy oversized fits, statement pieces.

Weight range: 380-500+ GSM.

Streetwear examples: Represent Owners Club, Rhude premium hoodies, Cole Buxton heavyweights.

4. Cotton Jersey (Interlock & Single Jersey)

Jersey is the lightweight, flat knit used for t-shirts. Single jersey has a smooth face and reverse-loop back (like French terry but much lighter). Interlock jersey is double-knit | smooth on both sides, more structured.

Feel: Lightweight, drapes softly, breathable.

Best for: T-shirts, long-sleeves, lightweight layers, baby tees.

Weight range: 140-250 GSM.

Streetwear examples: Every premium tee brand.

Bonus: Waffle Knit (Thermal)

Waffle knit has a textured "waffle" pattern created by the knit structure. Often used for henleys, long-sleeves, and thermal-effect pieces.

Feel: Textured, warm despite lightweight, distinctive visual pattern.

Best for: Long-sleeve layers, henley shirts, texture-focused pieces.

Which Fabric for Which Piece?

• Standard t-shirt: Single jersey 200-240 GSM combed cotton
• Premium heavyweight tee: Interlock jersey 230-280 GSM
• Lightweight hoodie/summer: French terry 280-320 GSM
• Standard cozy hoodie: Brushed fleece 340-400 GSM
• Premium boxy hoodie: Heavyweight loopback 420-500 GSM
• Joggers (lightweight): French terry 280-320 GSM
• Joggers (premium): Brushed fleece 340-380 GSM
• Long-sleeve layer: Waffle knit 220-260 GSM

What to Specify in Your Tech Pack

"Hoodie in fleece" is vague. Instead, specify:

• Fabric type (French terry / brushed fleece / loopback / jersey)
• GSM weight
• Composition (100% cotton / 90% cotton 10% poly / etc.)
• Yarn quality (combed ring-spun preferred)
• Any special treatment (garment-dyed, enzyme-washed, pigment-dyed)

"Ask your manufacturer for a swatch card showing French terry, brushed fleece, and loopback at similar weights. Ten seconds of feeling the difference is worth more than any specification document."

How ICF Handles These Fabrics

Istanbul Clothing Factory carries all four fabric families in the standard streetwear GSM ranges. French terry (280-360 GSM), brushed fleece (320-450 GSM), heavyweight loopback (420-500 GSM), and jersey (180-280 GSM) all in stock. Custom weights and blends developable on request.