French terry is the single most useful fabric in the streetwear category. Every serious label uses it. Every generation of hoodie construction has moved through it. This page explains what it is, what weights matter, what compositions we stock, and how we sample and produce French terry garments at Istanbul Clothing Factory.
What Is French Terry?
French terry is a warp-knit or circular-knit fabric built on a three-thread loopback structure. It has two visible faces:
- Face (outside): smooth, flat, print-friendly knit, the surface you see when a hoodie is worn.
- Back (inside): a series of small unbrushed loops of yarn that trap air. The loops are what give French terry its warmth, drape, and moisture absorbency.
Because the back loops are left un-brushed, French terry sits noticeably lighter and more breathable than fleece (which is the same loopback structure with the back loops brushed into a soft nap). It's the reason French terry works across seasons, warm enough for mid-weight hoodies in autumn, breathable enough for oversized tees and shorts in spring.
GSM Ranges We Stock
GSM (grams per square metre) is the single most important spec on a French terry garment. Weight determines drape, warmth, print behaviour, cost, and perceived quality. Our standard library:
- 240 GSM, light French terry. Best for oversized tees, light crewnecks, kids' hoodies, spring/summer joggers. Drapes fluidly, cool to wear.
- 280 GSM, mid-light. Standard for softer-feel hoodies aimed at a comfort-first market. Common in fast fashion and lounge lines.
- 320 GSM, the workhorse mid-weight. Balanced hoodie weight, prints beautifully, launders well, holds shape season after season. This is the default recommendation for most first-collection brands.
- 380 GSM, premium streetwear. Heavier hand, more structure, more presence on the body. The weight at which the loopback structure starts to feel expensive.
- 420 GSM, heavyweight loopback. The premium streetwear signature weight. Best for statement hoodies, crewnecks and joggers. Prints require the right technique (see below).
Compositions We Stock
Every GSM in our library is available in one or more of these fibre compositions:
- 100% cotton, combed, ring-spun. Standard.
- Cotton / polyester (typically 60/40 or 70/30), better wash stability, less shrinkage, faster drying.
- Organic cotton (OCS-certified chain of custody, GOTS available at higher MOQ).
- Recycled polyester blend (RCS-certified rPET content).
- Cotton / recycled polyester, the sustainable performance blend.
- Cotton / spandex (typically 95/5), stretch French terry for fitted joggers and dresses.
Color Options
Stock colors: black, off-white, ecru, heather grey, charcoal, navy, olive, beige, brown, burgundy. Custom Pantone dyes with lab-dip approval at MOQ. Reactive dyes for cotton, disperse for polyester. Garment-dye and pigment-dye finishing available on request.
Applications
French terry from our library goes into:
- Pullover and zip hoodies, the flagship French terry application.
- Crewneck sweatshirts, cleaner silhouette, higher price point.
- Joggers and sweat shorts, matched sets with hoodies.
- Oversized tees at 240 GSM for the heavier-tee streetwear look.
- Cardigans, dresses, layering pieces, women's and unisex.
Print and Decoration Notes
French terry is print-friendly on both faces. Screen print, DTG, DTF, plastisol, water-based, discharge, puff, and high-density all work. On heavier weights (380-420 GSM) we recommend a print base for detailed screen art to prevent the loops on the back showing through the ink on the face. Embroidery works cleanly across the range, we stabilise heavier weights with tear-away backing before hooping.
Sampling and Bulk Timing
First sample from tech pack: 10-14 days. Fit corrections: 5-7 days. Bulk production: 6-8 weeks after sample approval. Our MOQ is 150 pieces per color per style on all standard library fabrics, meaning you can drop a French terry hoodie in three colorways at 450 total pieces and each colorway hits its independent 150 minimum.
Frequently Asked Questions
A knit fabric with a smooth face and looped unbrushed back. The loops trap air for warmth without the fuzz of fleece, drapey, breathable, print-friendly on both faces.
240, 280, 320, 380 and 420 GSM. 320 is the standard hoodie workhorse; 380-420 is premium streetwear weight.
Hoodies, zip hoodies, crewnecks, joggers, shorts, oversized tees, cardigans, dresses, the most versatile knit in streetwear.
Yes. OCS-certified organic cotton, RCS-certified recycled polyester blends, Better Cotton mainstream sustainable cotton. GOTS available at higher MOQ.
Same three-thread loopback base structure. French terry keeps the back loops (drapey, breathable). Fleece brushes the back loops into a soft nap (warmer, fluffier).